Log cabins are a trend. It is an perfect option and there are a lot of styles which you can pick from and this is what makes the choice such an interesting one. When you purchase at wholesale, you are able to spend much less. This option is most acceptable for anyone who is willing to purchase their logs at a price that’s fair. It is also ideal for anybody who wishes to build many houses at exactly the same time.
You can buy and then ship the only things that you need for the project at hand.
Building for less
Building can be an experience that’s not only rewarding, but also fun as well for your entire family. If you don’t plan, it may also prove to be a nightmare. When you buy a kit that has everything contained it can actually cost you more than once you get the materials on your own.
To avoid this additional expense, it’s reasonable to purchase the logs at wholesale and save some cash. You can have these sent to you and taken right to the website.
There are several suppliers who can meet your buying needs at the best prices. As you make the purchase, it’s important to ensure that you can have the ability to customize the option and fulfill the specifications that you actually need.
The best suppliers should have a excellent reputation in the industry. Before you purchase, it’s important to make sure they’re well known and their products are of the highest quality. It is always important to check the prices in order to be able to compare the sort of savings you will have the ability to make.
These kinds of structures are ideal for home offices, and fantastic garden buildings. It’s important to make certain they are spacious and with a calm atmosphere. You can also choose them as a holiday home, or even a permanent home. The thick materials used help to make certain they can be used throughout the year. As such, the thickness is among the most significant things that ought to be considered.
The most important thing when making the purchase is understanding exactly what you need. It’s important to make your specifications quite clear and include all the features that you deem to be essential for you.
A fire is required in almost any backpacking, hiking, or camping survival scenario. It can look like a simple task building a campfire, but the majority of men and women struggle building one. Moreover, it can be more difficult to construct a campfire if you run out of matches. Whether it’s a campfire for cooking or for providing heat during cold nights, it is vital that you know the proper way to build a campfire, with or without matches, when camping.
Nothing beats the appeal and taste of meals cooked over the campfire. The freedom to cook over an open fire today is a privilege due to restricted regions of camping and declining firewood stocks in several campgrounds. This calls for utmost caution and respect.
Prerequisites for Building a Campfire for Cooking
Pay attention to the floor where the fire is going to be lit before beginning to prepare the fire area. It is recommended you build the fire over a rock. In case it is not possible on a rock, you need to ensure that the foundation of the flame is on a bare mineral soil. When the time comes to put out the fire, a simple bucket of water will not do-have a fire pit mechanism in place.
Campfire for cooking should be clean, and burning hot. Getting green wood from trees won’t bear fruit because of its fire burn poorly and create unnecessary smoke. Call ahead to see what is available as many public campgrounds supply firewood.
Strong winds are poisonous in cooking. And can cause sparks getting away, which can ignite forest fire. Strong winds reduce firewood fast and provide much less cooking time. Thus, a wind shelter is critical to daunt important winds from interfering with your cooking.
These are little materials that ignite easily and quickly using a spark. They include dry grasses, fungus, mosses or shredded bark. The material have to be dry and finely shredded as possible.
Medium-sized substances that would catch fire from tinder, quickly. Kindling may include little twigs, dry leaves, larger pieces of barks, or sticks. Kindling material has to be dry, small items to be able to catch fire.
Building a Campfire for Cooking
When building a campfire for cooking, the objective is to have the wood turn to coal in the same time. This would create an even flame with no flames going up to the meals or blackening your cookware. This also builds the longest cooking time from the fire produced.
The fire site should be located at least 8″ from any combustibles. Make sure no tree branches hang round the site. Use green logs or massive rocks to produce a U-shaped perimeter around the fire area. If using logs for the perimeter, have them down from time to time. Create some kind of chimney; you may have a large flat rock put at the back of the fire place, to help direct the smoke up and away.
Laying the Kindling
Distribute the fire place with tinder. Put kindling material over the tinder in layers, interchanging management with each layer. You can employ use of thin splits of wood or small dead branches. Do not place kindling materials the”teepee style”. Cover the whole fire place with the kindling stack. Have a bucket of water near the fire place. To start the fire, light the tinder material.
When the kindling material is ablaze, add firewood. The wood needs to have the identical dimensions, as far as possible. You can use wood or wood branches. Distribute wood evenly over the fire bed. When flames start to die down leaving largely white coals, remove the white coals by shoving them in the lower level at the front and back end in a higher level. This would level the remaining coal to your liking. Set rocks or wetted green logs around the fire for placing the grill or toaster for cooking.
Although the tepee procedure is much more popular, the log cabin method is the best for cooking.
Log Cabin Method
You build a small tepee of tinder and kindling in the middle of your fireplace. The space between logs allows for air circulation from bottom to top of the fireplace. Build the wood logs as big as you would like. Light the kindling in the middle. You can blow into the tepee in the event the fire struggles to set ablaze or dig little air holes beneath the base logs. Keep the fire at a fair and safe size.
This is accomplished by creating a solid log cabin, with the largest logs in the bottom and something about the size of your wrist on top. The platform is for all those who want a nice bed of coals to cook . Light fire on the top and let it burn through the logs, which will create a big, thick bed of hot coals. You don’t have to await it all to burn down before you start cooking.
The platform procedure is known as”upside down” fire when larger logs are used. It’s maintained for its ability to burn for a very long time, unattended. Remember to put the largest logs on the bottom and scale up to smaller stuff at the top. Light fire at the top. As you practice, you will figure out the right size of wood needed to make fire that burns by itself, all night.
It can be a little bit difficult learning how to create campfire using platform procedure. The trick is to produce a large enough teepee on top in order to make a bed of coals that will be effective at burning through the first layer, igniting it, building a larger bed of coals etc..
The Tepee Method
Compact the tinder into a ball formation, about 4″ in diameter. Then place it in the center of the fire area. Stack the kindling material to a corn formation, around the tinder. Lean wood logs on the kindling. Leave an opening in the teepee for lighting the pile of tinder in the bottom with games. The fire spreads to the kindling and logs once the tinder lights; providing you a great campfire. You may blow softly on the flame to get it spread into the kindling and wood. In the event the fire goes out, add more tinder or kindling. When the blaze is going, keep adding logs in the tepee pattern.
There are a bunch of approaches to build campfire, but the important thing here is to practice, find the method that suits your cooking and you are comfortable with. You can even customize the flame to your unique needs on a given night, Practicing the hard way, with Ferro pole, knife and tinder, and leaning to prepare your wood with limited tools helps develop key skills for survival.
To many people, tarantulas are disgustingly revolting since they are hairy, stocky, and fearsome-looking. . .But to other individuals, they are TERRIFIC! Despite their reputations, most tarantulas are harmless to humans and are popular in exotic pet trade. There are no true tarantulas that are known to have a bite that is deadly to humans.
Some people even eat them. . .Yup, that’s what I said! In some countries, tarantulas are considered a delicacy, and taste somewhat like shrimp…
Tarantulas range in colours from brown, black and grey (very drab) to excitingly colorful varieties of metallic blue, white and black, bright orange, and cobalt blue.
Tarantulas are very often hairy and rather large. They don’t spin webs, unless they live in a tunnel, because they hunt their prey on the ground. If they live in a tunnel, they are known to lineup that tunnel with web to catch wandering prey. They use their speed and ambush capabilities to capture different spiders and insects. Larger varieties are even know to capture lizards, mice and birds.
Tarantulas have adopted a number of different names around the world, such as baboon spiders, barking spiders, whistling spiders, earth tigers, or bird spiders, just to mention a few.
My Story: When I lived in Australia back in 1994-95, I was on the phone with my mum in Canada as I had been wandering around the house. All of a sudden, I let out a massive scream and dropped the phone. I came back to pick up the phone to describe to her that I just walked to the restroom. In the bottom of the bathtub was a big, hairy spider about the size of a saucer (like it’s legs), and it was making a sound and leaping about 1 1/2 ft into the air.
I was so petrified, I didn’t know what to do. My mom was scared on the opposite end of the telephone as I got a clear plastic container and hauled some holes into the base of it, and covered it up in the tub until my roommates came home, who were native Aussies…
They believed it was so funny I was so scared, but I had never seen one before, being from Canada! They safely let it outside for me. Not my cup of tea, but many people loves these little guys! I wish I’d have considered taking a photograph of it!
Tarantulas live all over the world including the USA, Central & South America, Africa, Australia, and Asia.
Tarantulas rely upon their thick exoskeleton for protection and support. The body length of tarantulas vary from 2.5 – 10 cm (1-4 inches), with 8-30 cm (3 to 12 inch) leg spans (their size when including their legs).
Conservation Status: For the most part, tarantulas do well. However, the Mexican red-knee tarantula is on the Critically Endangered list based on WWF. This is because urbanization, increasing tourism, and manipulation of wildlife are high-intensity risks to the area, as are road building, perennial plantations, and ranching.
With”That is just the way it is”. Elephants are gray, canaries are yellow, so why shouldn’t flamingos be pink? Well, there actually is an excellent reason.
First of all, young flamingos are not pink, they are gray (like an elephant) for about the first three years of life, and they turn pink. Not all adult flamingos are pink though most are either pink or a shade of red near pink. Of the five species of flamingo in existence, the Caribbean flamingo, is truly a very bright red red. Generally speaking, adult flamingos are either red, pink, or someplace in between. That still begs the question however, “Why are Flamingos Pink”.
Genetics would appear to be the obvious answer, but it is not the best one. There is the old expression”You are what you eat”, and flamingos are pink because of their diet. If you put a flamingo in captivity, and give it something to eat rather than its usual diet, the bird will so start to lose its coloring, and eventually become more white than pink. The fact that we do not see more white flamingos in zoos is because the zookeepers are careful to provide the flamingos a special flamingo food, containing all the nutrients they would get in their natural habitats.
A flamingo’s diet is high in beta-carotene, the same substance we ingest when we eat carrots. Their natural habitat is in shallow lakes and wetlands, where shrimp tend to flourish. When you think of it, somebody who likes carrots and eats a few a day can take on a slightly orange color to their complexion. That actually happens, and isn’t unhealthy although it may seem so.
, you can honestly say it is because they eat shrimp. You can go into some detail with the cartenoid bit if you desire, but for our purposes, just saying shrimp should suffice. Then if you’re pressed, you can cite cartenoids and beta-carotine, like that’s something everyone should already know!
If the person still does not believe your response, you can tell them that flamingos also fly and march, two more details about flamingos that definitely are true. We are so used to seeing flamingos from the zoo only standing on one leg (it’s the most comfortable way for them to stand), or as lawn ornaments in the neighborhood, we forget that they are quite capable of flight, and in fact fly from one place to another in enormous flocks. Insofar as marching is concerned, should you see a group (really a colony) of flamingos on the ground, and watch them over a period of time, you will eventually see them march.
Pasta is one of the best-loved comfort foods in the world. It’s just as versatile as it’s cheap and it can be served with a lot of different sauces. As such, it is gotten a negative reputation among the weight loss community. After, however, are several incredible reasons why this delicious dish should be made a regular part of your diet.
For busy people, this is one of the most mobile foods out there. For instance, if you regularly pack your lunch for work, you can easily store this in a coverage dish and rewarm it at lunch time. This will provide a hearty, filling meal which will provide you lots of energy and at a nominal price. Bringing leftover pasta to function is infinitely less expensive than paying to have someone in a regional deli create your lunch for you.
Another major benefit that you could gain from this food is the ability to make vegetables tasty. As an example, if you have a difficult time getting your kids to consume a great deal of produce, this is a excellent way to sneak a colorful selection of nutrient-dense veggies into your child’s meals. Your little one will hardly know you have diced up peppers, zucchini, tomatoes and olives to this dish.
There isn’t any way to overstate the fact that pasta is remarkably affordable. Moreover, one little box can go a very long way. For families that are continuously trying to eke it out, this is the perfect food for ensuring that everybody can sate themselves at dinnertime, every time.
Bodybuilders load on this carb with good reason. It quickly breaks down to lots of usable energy. Whether you are presently working in the gym to build up your mass or simply need more fuel to get you through the day, start munching on this simple food at lunch time and you’ll realize that you have more stamina and better focus for hours on end.
People should be aware they don’t always need to cook this dish at home in order to recognize its many remarkable benefits. You can enjoy how simple, portable, flavorful and filling pasta is simply by taking your family out to a restaurant which serves Italian food. Best of all, you can take any leftovers you must lunch with you the next day, so you may enjoy the succulent and perfectly blended flavors of the popular cuisine all over again.
Number 1: Before you acquire a salamander, you want to secure a particular collection permit from your regional branch of conservation and wildlife department. Your regional authority may be issuing this license to permit you to maintain a salamander in your home.
A tank which measures 1×2 feet is sufficient for a little to midsize salamander. However, it is possible to go to as big as 3×4 feet. It needs to be tight enough to maintain the salamander from penetrating.
Number 3: Make sure that you fill the tank with soil or sand for around 4 inches deep. You might also use an old cake pan or loaf bread pan so that it is going to fit nicely with the elevation of the sand. You want to provide a suitable substrate for burrowing too.
Number 4: Place fresh water to the container. Salamander loves to remain in damp, dark and green areas; hence you may place green plants within the tank. When you add water within the tank, the runoff will eventually keep the sand moist.
Number 5: Safe rocks and other things which can be utilised as colors like driftwoods and leaves and place it inside your tank. But, ensure you set it in an organized fashion so that it won’t ruin your setup.
Number 6: Salamanders produce excess waste. If you are unable to do so, ammonia will lodge within the tank causing your tank to be contaminated.
Number 7: See to it that your tank is dry for terrestrial terrarium, but maintain your substrate slightly moist. If you’re keeping semi-aquatic salamanders, be certain that the land part is moist, but not submerged in water. Meanwhile, the water on the wet-side must remain clean.
Number 8: Salamanders can be held in room temperature. Normally, salamanders have sensitive skin and they have the propensity to acquire chemicals immediately. Hence, they don’t require certain UV lights. Rather, see to it that you simply rotate the daytime and dark cycle to mimic their natural surroundings.
Having a pet in your home can wipe out your stress and give you a different sense of happiness. Surely, you’ll discover a rewarding moment with your salamander. However, as soon as you have your own salamander, be certain you don’t forget your responsibilities as a pet owner. Take good care of your salamanders well so that they will live long and happily together with you.
Iguanas are magnificent reptiles and owning them means knowing them. Knowing about them will make caring for them so much easier. I strongly recommend doing your own research as unfortunately some pet shops will tell you what you would like to hear in order to make”the sale”.
Here are 5 quick and easy iguana care tips:
I highly recommend beginning your iguana out in a 20 gallon aquarium (or its equivalent ). Before bringing him/her home, ensure the enclosure is ready for housing. Make sure that your iguana enclosure has UVA and UVB lighting, heat lamp (I do not recommend”heat stones” as reptiles in general tend to stay on them and can burn), hide box (infants will conceal ) and a water container large enough for your iguana to completely submerge in (they love water).
After bringing your iguana house , put it in it’s already prepared enclosure and let it settle in for a day or so. It’s imperative to permit your new addition to acclimate to its new surrounding. This can help”tame” your iguana making him/her more secure and trusting.
Being a tropical to sub-tropical species of reptile, high humidity within the enclosure will be essential (80% or higher), as is appropriate temperature. Temperature during the day will need to be around 88 – 93 degrees (f). At night, lower the temperature to 75 – 78 degrees (f). Use a UVB”black light” to accomplish this and place it on the opposite side of this”afternoon” lamp.
Do not be alarmed if your iguana shy’s away from food for the first couple of days. This is very common until acclimated to its new environment. It’s still crucial to put their food inside their enclosure. Start them out with finely cut romaine lettuce and red cabbage (they adore romaine lettuce) for a few days. This will”break them in” and prompt them to feed.
Iguanas can and will become”lettuce junkies” which can lead to malnutrition which causes Fibrous Osteodystrophy (metabolic bone disease) so its important to feed them a variety of different vegetables, fruits and flowers and in the percentages given below:
*10% fruits (melons, bananas, grapes, strawberries, apples and pears).
*10% flowers (hibiscus, roses, carnations and even dandelions). One flower to prevent is the azalea. Though beautiful, the azalea is poisonous (toxic) to iguanas, so avoid this flower.
In its simplest form: 80% vegetables + 10% fruits + 10% blossoms = 100% nutrition!
Keeping your iguana enclosure clean is very important! If their enclosure is dirty, your iguana can become susceptible to parasites. Parasites can and eventually will cause sickness or worse kill your iguana (s). If you see fecal matter, rotting food, or clouding in their own water, clean the enclosure immediately.
In conclusion, Mimicking nature is the surest method of keeping your iguana healthy and happy.
As time goes by, you won’t think that your once little lizard is now so long as you. Once your iguana matures, you will feel as if he/she is part of the family!
The final step is to find a excellent exotic veterinarian for your iguana. It’s wonderful to know that if something should go wrong, you have an exotic vet who knows that your iguana and what is needed to keep them happy and healthy.
Some substrates are regarded as safer than others, while others are downright dangerous. There are some that people have varying perspectives on, such as sand.
Your lizards won’t succeed on bare glass, so it is a fantastic idea to give them something to live on. There are lots of alternatives available, from paper to sand to rock to wood chips. You can discover lots of them in your house or local pet shop. But don’t assume security.
Some are more suitable than others, and some are really hazardous to your lizard and can result in considerable health issues. Do not assume that just because a substrate is supplied in the pet shop, it is going to be safe. Even bedding branded for leopard geckos might not be a fantastic idea.
Leopard geckos should not be placed on cedar or pine, since these aromatic forests are poisonous to them, and to almost every other little animal kept as a pet. The substances that maintain these wood chips smelling great are also toxic when inhaled in large amounts or when consumed.
This trend is one reason that some people decide to bed their lizards on particular calcium-rich sand, because it gives a calcium supplement when ingested, and won’t be poisonous. However, there’s some disagreement about the digestibility of the substrate, in addition to concern over using other forms of sand, because they may cause blockages of the digestive tract.
If sand is selected, be certain it’s the best sand you can find, as opposed to a coarser builder’s sand, and supply regular and copious calcium supplementation to dissuade your lizard from ingesting it. Lots of individuals successfully keep their animals on sand without any problems, but they need to pay careful attention.
If using paper, such as paper or paper towels, be certain it’s sterile, or any inks used are non-toxic. Simply remove the paper and add fresh substrate whenever it is dirty. It is not a very natural looking choice, however.
Bark is usually a bad option, being hard to clean and easy to consume. Reptile carpet, especially designed to be used with snakes and lizards, is a washable, easy to clean substrate that comes pre cut into the most popular tank dimensions, but doesn’t offer a natural look.
Some people also choose to use ceramic or slate tiles, because these are rather natural in appearance (unglazed ceramic is better for this than glazed) and offer horizontal basking surfaces without the threat of substrate ingestion.
Regardless of what substrate you opt to use, ensure it’s clean and free of harmful objects or substances before putting it into your terrarium. Decide whether you would like to simply have the ability to wash it, or in the event you will want to replace it if its dirty, and if a natural appearance is a significant priority. This will say the best bedding to your geckos.
Each year, ball python breeders are coming out with a new colour or pattern morph to fulfill the desires of keepers and breeders alike. Over the last few years, there has been a surge in producing various pattern or color morphs, which would be the envy of the snake world. These can cost upwards of thousands of dollars. There are still lots of normal ball pythons being bred in captivity for the pet but there is definite change in the market.
This change has happened before and is seeing a resurgence today. A growing number of people today are keeping reptiles; specifically snakes in general as bits of living art. In the late eighties, there was a guy who changed the thinking of reptile keepers everywhere with a book called The Art of Snake Keeping. Philippe de Vosjoli has been a source of not only reptile keeping information but also a source of inspiration for many keepers today. Philippe reminded us then and a natural environment is the best way to celebrate our reptiles.
Reptile collectors today aren’t satisfied purchasing a snake, placing it into a fish tank with a screen lid, and a heater. They see their reptiles as an investment and wish to display themas they want a Picasso painting. We still see the usual buyers of reptiles within the pet industry but there’s a definite growing percentage of individuals who are buying the higher wind or more costly morphs so as to create their own artistic statement in there home or office.
Solving the mystery
Keepers are way more knowledgeable today as we all are about the care specifics of reptiles. Over the past three decades, many individuals have learned, with more knowledge about their chosen reptile they can make informed decisions about which product(s) will provide them not only a better environment but also a better means of reptile keeping. Today more keepers are recognizing it is not about just captive care of reptiles in general, but about the natural history of the entire genre, which is currently making a difference in how they keep their snakes. Using the ball python for instance, many keepers thought for years that this species was only a fossorial snake. Now we know that ball pythons from some regions climb into small shrubs and spend time there off the floor. With the tendency of creating a more natural environment for our snakes we’re observing new behaviors; I would be ready to say, if the reptiles were bred under those conditions we would also observe an increasing tendency towards improved breeding success.
Product manufacturers are also more aware of this increasing trend as well. They now produce a better line of goods to fulfill the requirements of the discerning keeper. With the producers understanding just as much if not more about our reptiles, we’re not looking through a bay window onto a large environment but a microscope to the world that makes up the microenvironment of the reptiles we maintain. With this knowledge, we have the ability to provide a far better captive environment, one highlighting the snake, rather than just keeping it alive.
Many parameters go into this sort of environment. Previously, all we had were fish tanks with screen lids as I’d mentioned earlier. Today we have plexiglass enclosures, which are simpler to maintain. Plexiglass not only is easier to heat but it also retains the humidity necessary for maintaining tropical species such as the ball python.
Besides the advent of new materials like plexiglass for the enclosure, we now have a firmer grasp on our knowledge of plants, substrates, heaters, and various other pieces of equipment which need to maintain a wholesome environment for our reptiles. Manufacturers taking advantage of this, are now producing some incredible products that make snake ownership possible for almost anyone who has an interest. With all this knowledge available to individuals we still observe the most frequent mistake with the new snake keeper.
They purchase the snake and what they think are the right stuff for the environment and then place all of this into the old type of fish tank enclosure. The major issue with keeping most tropical animals in this sort of enclosure is that there’s a huge quantity of air exchange when display lids are used. If you live in a dry area such as myself this type of enclosure will require misting numerous times a day. This is a very time consuming process. In case you’ve made a greater end investment this is a crucial part of captive care to mist the snake and monitor its surroundings. Using the right enclosure such as those produced by Ricky’ s Reptile Enclosures will save you from having to go through this matter.
Now you know which enclosure to purchase, but the fun doesn’t stop there. These are inexpensive and easy to clean; therefore, they make sense for the breeder attempting to keep costs to a minimum. Breeders use either pine shavings or paper to keep their snakes. The showcase snake though won’t be display properly on those substrates. To show off the colors and patterns of the higher end morphs or even the’normal’ ball python we suggest going with a planted vivarium type of setting.
The Right Plant
The planted vivarium isn’t as hard as it may seem, it is actually an issue of plant selection, placement, and the use of the perfect soils. I use organic potting soil that is pearlite free and landscape the enclosure so that the back of the enclosure is a little graded or sloped towards the front. The organic potting soil is fine on its own but to really get a nice look to the whole vivarium I put a layer of orchid bark or cypress mulch on top.
Not only do plants help create oxygen inside the enclosure, but they also offer a degree of humidity as does the soil/mulch mixture. Delicate ferns and other such plants won’t stand up to a drifting P. regius.
We must also be careful of any plants which may be toxic to a reptile. And of course the fact that many of the plant recommendations you see online sound great. However, what they do not tell you is that their recommendations are actually bushes that can get extremely large. As an example, one recommendation I saw was for Callistemon, which they had misspelled as Callistemom commonly known as bottlebrush. Most websites list this as a TREE, which gets 10-12 feet in height. Why would you advocate that to get a reptile or amphibian enclosure?
Here’s a list of non-toxic plants which you can use without fear of them growing into trees or stabbing a drifting snake. Pothos Epipremnum pothos aureus, Liriope Lily turf, & Aspidistra Cast Iron plant are plants that I have used within the vivarium itself and have not had any issue. Some mosses may be applied as ground cover too but I have never used them before so I am unable to make any recommendations . Aside from the plants, add a sandblasted grapevine bit angled from among the bottom corners of the enclosure to the opposite top corner diagonally so the snake can decide to be either lower or higher. I have yet to see a branch be provided that was not used at some point.
You must also offer some kind of hide area within the enclosure. Personally, I like the half logs which are sold for this purpose. Buy one which the snake can input and when coiled their body needs to encounter the sides. This is a vital piece as it enables the snake to feel protected.